Do you know how the degree of salinity of the water is a vital factor on figuring the weather?
Do you know how much we are all fucking up our planet?
Once upon a time, when I was feeling at my most restless and I needed a meaning in life, I became a surfer. I decided not just to surf, but to become a surfer. To do that, I had to get in tune with nature, pay attention and count the waves, listen to the wind and feel how strong and long the wind gusts go… to be nature, I had to stay out there, and see, and listen, and feel… and then I had the privilege to be a part of nature -because nature actually let me be a part if it, and I had have honor to feel its immensity until this day…